Celeriac Loose Each

Do not let the appearance put you off. Celeriac is one of the most rewarding vegetables in the shop once you get past the knobbly exterior and into the firm white flesh inside. Clean celery flavour, dense and versatile, it is the root vegetable that serious cooks reach for through the cooler months.

At its best from April through August when cool growing conditions produce firm dense roots with full flavour. Available year-round but autumn and winter celeriac is the one worth seeking out.

Start with a remoulade. Peel and julienne the raw flesh, toss immediately in lemon juice to prevent browning, then dress with a mustardy mayonnaise for a classic French preparation that needs nothing else alongside cold meats and a sharp cornichon. From there roast it in chunks alongside other root vegetables until golden and caramelised, blitz into a silky soup with a little cream and fresh thyme, or mash half and half with potato for something richer and more interesting than potato alone.

Look for roots that are firm and heavy with no soft spots or sponginess. The rough knobbly exterior is completely normal. Dense and solid is your signal every time.