Quince Each

Quince is one of Australia's great forgotten autumn fruits. It looks like a lumpy, golden pear but it cannot be eaten raw. Hard, dry and astringent straight from the tree, cook it and something remarkable happens: the flesh turns a deep rose-red and develops an extraordinary floral, honey-scented flavour that no other fruit can replicate.

The most well-known use is quince paste (membrillo), that ruby-coloured slab served alongside manchego or aged cheddar on a cheese board. Beyond that: slow-poach quince in sugar syrup with vanilla and a star anise for a stunning autumn dessert with cream or custard, or add to slow-braised lamb or pork for a fragrant, lightly sweet depth that lifts the whole dish.

Australian quince season runs from April through July. Choose fruit that is yellow to golden with a fine white fuzz on the skin, which is completely normal. Quince are always firm; that is not a sign of being unripe, it is how they are supposed to be. A strong floral fragrance is the best quality signal. They store exceptionally well, weeks at room temperature and months in the fridge.