Endive Bunch Each

Elegant, crisp and pleasantly bitter, endive is the cool season leaf that rewards the cook who knows how to use it. Pale, tightly packed and with a clean bitter edge that cuts through richness and lifts everything it is paired with, it is one of the most versatile and underappreciated leaves in the produce section.

At its best from April through August when cool growing conditions produce tight firm heads with a balanced bitterness and good crispness. Available year-round but the cool season endive is noticeably the better product.

Separate the leaves and use as natural scoops for a blue cheese and walnut filling, a smoked salmon and creme fraiche topping, or a simple prawn and avocado combination for an elegant no-fuss starter. Halve lengthways and caramelise cut side down in butter until golden and tender where the bitterness softens beautifully into sweetness. Tear through a salad with orange segments, toasted hazelnuts and a light vinaigrette where the contrast is the whole point. Braise slowly in chicken stock and butter for a classic French preparation that transforms the leaf entirely.

Look for heads that are firm and tight with pale cream to white leaves and yellow-green tips and no browning at the edges. Store away from direct light as light turns the leaves green and intensifies the bitterness. Dense and heavy for its size is your freshness signal.